Lighting Tripping The Circuit

Easiest test is to just run an extension cord from another breaker's circuit. Methinks your primary lighting might be "oscillating".... That CFL fixture won't like a lot of oscillation... Unlike Elvis, CFLs don't like to be All Shook Up.... lolol
 
Easiest test is to just run an extension cord from another breaker's circuit. Methinks your primary lighting might be "oscillating".... That CFL fixture won't like a lot of oscillation... Unlike Elvis, CFLs don't like to be All Shook Up.... lolol

o waxi I'm always movin and a shakin!

giphy.gif


:thumbs:
 
no doubt that everyone has a method to thier madness. hence me asking why he decided to go with them as his last 2 grows went great. you know..why fix it if it is not broke.lol as i am obv new to autoflowers im just trying to pick as many brains as possible and who better then bandit? and as i can only validate and sympathize with bandits issues i had to ask? and just like every individual gardner can determine what is best for thier needs sometimes the way to those ends is through asking questions and getting feedback. if my attempt at humor was ill or mis understood i appoligize! bandit and i have joked back and forth in the past soo i figured he'd get it!!

No bro, I need to apologize in all honesty. I read your post and thought you were being a dick to TGB so I kinda fired back at you prematurely. I didn't realize you were just joking around. So, thanks for setting the story straight. I am man enough to admit when I screwed up and I screwed up by jumping to conclusions too quickly. I was just trying to protect my little buddy TGB. Sorry for the misunderstanding. :hug:

Finally managed to open it up. Fuse looks good

View attachment 413664View attachment 413665

Hey TGB, I gotta be honest with you. I have never seen a fluorescent light with a fuse inside and I have never seen one that didn't have an enclosed ballast. I am quite surprised by the looks of the internals on that thing.

I see a hot and I see a neutral. You know the one thing I don't see.......a ground. + is red, - is white and you should have a green. That green wire should be mounted to the frame somewhere. If you don't have a green wire in there or it isn't mounted to the metal on the frame of the light then that is the reason your GFCI is tripping.

Now, that doesn't explain why your light isn't working in the other socket but we may have solved one problem. One thing that bothers me is the "open" circuit in that fixture. Do you see any signs of arcing inside the housing where a solder point from that board may have touched the frame or a wire may have? If not, and everything looks pretty good as far as no scorching or signs of bulging capacitors then you are going to need to do some testing with the power on it and I am not too sure I feel comfortable walking you through that over the internet to be honest. We need to check for power coming into the ballast and power going out of the ballast to know if you have a bad ballast or if there is something going on with your circuit. If it comes to that I would prefer you have a trained electrician looking at it. I don't want to get anyone hurt.
 
If it hasn't been stated yet, GFCI's detect fault to ground, not overload. A GFCI is a safety device, not over current protection. While a GFCI is *rated* at 15 or 20 amps, this is a different rating.

If GFCI's are installed in your kitchen, bath, garage etc... for safety's sake, don't remove them, these devices are there to protect you.

The circuit breaker in the panel is over-current (too much amperage) protection, and since you described that your lights will trip breaker as well as GFCI devices, a fault to ground could cause fault on either/both. The ground is a path to clear a fault (tell system something is wrong and trip breaker) rather than involve US in the path to fault (BAD).

I'll come right over and check it out :D (if it was only that easy...)

At all costs, be safe!

IMO opinion, every grow room should have it's lights/equipment plugged into a GFCI. If the GFCI trips, the equipment may be faulty.
 
No bro, I need to apologize in all honesty. I read your post and thought you were being a dick to TGB so I kinda fired back at you prematurely. I didn't realize you were just joking around. So, thanks for setting the story straight. I am man enough to admit when I screwed up and I screwed up by jumping to conclusions too quickly. I was just trying to protect my little buddy TGB. Sorry for the misunderstanding. :hug:



Hey TGB, I gotta be honest with you. I have never seen a fluorescent light with a fuse inside and I have never seen one that didn't have an enclosed ballast. I am quite surprised by the looks of the internals on that thing.

I see a hot and I see a neutral. You know the one thing I don't see.......a ground. + is red, - is white and you should have a green. That green wire should be mounted to the frame somewhere. If you don't have a green wire in there or it isn't mounted to the metal on the frame of the light then that is the reason your GFCI is tripping.

Now, that doesn't explain why your light isn't working in the other socket but we may have solved one problem. One thing that bothers me is the "open" circuit in that fixture. Do you see any signs of arcing inside the housing where a solder point from that board may have touched the frame or a wire may have? If not, and everything looks pretty good as far as no scorching or signs of bulging capacitors then you are going to need to do some testing with the power on it and I am not too sure I feel comfortable walking you through that over the internet to be honest. We need to check for power coming into the ballast and power going out of the ballast to know if you have a bad ballast or if there is something going on with your circuit. If it comes to that I would prefer you have a trained electrician looking at it. I don't want to get anyone hurt.


:pighug: Dammit,Guru ! Straight up, you're my brother from another mother, all day, every day! Thanks for looking out for me, A4. You're always coming through for me. I'm gonna take your advice and let someone look at the lights and check the outlets. I guess I'll have to go without the side lighting for a while longer, but it's cool, though.:Sharing One: You're one cool mamma jamma, bro.:bump:

If it hasn't been stated yet, GFCI's detect fault to ground, not overload. A GFCI is a safety device, not over current protection. While a GFCI is *rated* at 15 or 20 amps, this is a different rating.

If GFCI's are installed in your kitchen, bath, garage etc... for safety's sake, don't remove them, these devices are there to protect you.

The circuit breaker in the panel is over-current (too much amperage) protection, and since you described that your lights will trip breaker as well as GFCI devices, a fault to ground could cause fault on either/both. The ground is a path to clear a fault (tell system something is wrong and trip breaker) rather than involve US in the path to fault (BAD).

I'll come right over and check it out :D (if it was only that easy...)

At all costs, be safe!

IMO opinion, every grow room should have it's lights/equipment plugged into a GFCI. If the GFCI trips, the equipment may be faulty.

I'm gonna have to read this a few times, because that's a lot of useful info! My brain is throbbing a bit from absorbing all that, but I'm about to hit another bowl, so I'll be good in a hot second! Thanks for the info, I appreciate the extra knowledge.
 
I'm gonna have to read this a few times, because that's a lot of useful info! My brain is throbbing a bit from absorbing all that, but I'm about to hit another bowl, so I'll be good in a hot second! Thanks for the info, I appreciate the extra knowledge.

Sorry about that bandit!
 
Back
Top