Grow Room Micro Grow à la Spaghetti Sauce

[pop22]

Actually, 5.8 is low for Ca, its absorption tapers off beginning at 6.0 and is almost non-exsistent. I don't like most charts you may find but the give you a rough idea of ph ranges. You always want to shoot for the middle for best balance of nutrient availability.

 

[pop22]

I don't get why people think it best to run hydro on the low end of the scale.Doing so puts you right on the edge of ph troubles, if ph drops when your already at 5.7, your screwed. Your plants will be damaged and will never reach their full potential. Best success will be had maintaining a ph of 5.9-6.2. Realize, each .1 difference is actually a 10X increase or decrease in PH.

At this point, if ph issues are suspected, you need to ph runoff of your medium to find out if you need to raise or lower it. Most often with ph issues, your ph is low

 

[Wile e Peyote]

Actually, 5.8 is low for Ca, its absorption tapers off beginning at 6.0 and is almost non-exsistent. I don't like most charts you may find but the give you a rough idea of ph ranges. You always want to shoot for the middle for best balance of nutrient availability.


View attachment 688513

Not in coco it ain't [emoji12]

I toke therfore I am so naaa

 

[SpaghettiSauce]

Hey. What seems to be deficiencies in coco are often a watering/pH/salt problems. Go take a look at my grow journal pages 2 and 3. I had a similar problem that was caused by (mostly) overwatering and (probably) poor prepping of my medium.

What is your watering frequency? Do you let the pot get light between waterings? What about your ec? Have you tested your runoff ec?

If it is indeed a cal/mag problem, you should bump your pH to about 6/6.2 but if your problems are caused by salts accumulation or overwatering changing the pH will not do much. Your plants are still quite young so you should give them some drying time so they can increase their root mass. You'll notice growth spurts after each watering if you let them properly colonize their pots, once properly established you can switch to daily waterings.

Now, if it is salt accumulation (test your runoff and compare it with the watering ec) you should rinse your substrate with pH adjusted water then let the coco dry for a couple of days before you start feeding again. I don't like telling people "you should buy this or that" but, in this case, I would tell you to invest in a bottle of ataclean or dripclean and use a few drops with every watering. I find it helps clean salts out of the coco without any ill effects (none that I can see anyway).

Ive been watering 2ce a day about 2 cups of water. My ppm runoff is 140 at 6.3ph and im watering at 5.8 at 240ppm. Feed feed water. Feed feed water is what ive been doing.

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[Jimmy McGill]

Ive been watering 2ce a day about 2 cups of water. My ppm runoff is 140 at 6.3ph and im watering at 5.8 at 240ppm. Feed feed water. Feed feed water is what ive been doing.

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Then I think you are overwatering them just like I did. Let them dry a little bit (not too much, if they start wilting you've let it dry too much) like switch to an every other day watering until they can take daily waterings.
If your runoff readings are consistent (ec lower than watering value and pH higher than watering value) you could bump up your watering ec a little bit. Side note, I'd encourage you to use ec rather than ppm readings as the latest is just a conversion of the first.

 

[pop22]

As a test, I ran this plant on the high end, as I've run both soil and coco from the same res, with the same nutrients. I maintained a ph of 6.25 to 6.35 through out the entire grow, and had the healthiest coco plant I've had to date, no deficiencies, no ph issues. I'm looking at coco although considered hydro, to act almost like soil. Now that is only as theory I'm testing but I've run coco as high as 6.5 without issues. I'm of the opinion that coco and soil have a broader ph acceptance range than seems to be the accepted norm. It is a fact however, that low ph invites the growth of harmful fungi such as pythium, another reason to avoid going too low/.



Here she is in a 3.9 gallon autopot:

 

[SpaghettiSauce]

Actually, 5.8 is low for Ca, its absorption tapers off beginning at 6.0 and is almost non-exsistent. I don't like most charts you may find but the give you a rough idea of ph ranges. You always want to shoot for the middle for best balance of nutrient availability.


View attachment 688513

i was following this chart that shows the ph absorption rate of calcium lower in the ph spectrum

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[Jimmy McGill]

I personally totally agree with pop22 about pH. I use "sited" tap water that has a pH of about 6.5 and I just add 2 or 3 drops of pH- per liter that lowers my pH to about 6/6.3 (up to 6.5 at the end of the flowering cycle) and I am very happy with it. I used to do the 5.5/6 pH range in the beginning but I switched to 6/6.3 when I started using blumats and I stayed there since.

 

[pop22]

I've seen that chart. Yet most others show a higher start and end range. I've seen at least three conflicting charts. This one is supposedly tied to a specific brand's nutrient line. I personally would like to see a chart put out by a plant biologist, thus I take all these charts with a grain of salt. Look around for some other charts, then you'll really be confused! If low ph works for you, good! I'm not a hydro expert by any means, but I put my faith in science every time.

 

[SpaghettiSauce]

I've seen that chart. Yet most others show a higher start and end range. I've seen at least three conflicting charts. This one is supposedly tied to a specific brand's nutrient line. I personally would like to see a chart put out by a plant biologist, thus I take all these charts with a grain of salt. Look around for some other charts, then you'll really be confused! If low ph works for you, good! I'm not a hydro expert by any means, but I put my faith in science every time.

I appreciate the input pop and jdoe. Now im gonna let them dry a day or so and try a higher ph. Thanks again

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